The frost crept up on me in the night. I wake to a frozen sleeping bag and tent. I'm reluctant to move but my wet sleeping bag is a poor insulator - there's little point staying in bed. Slowly I put on my ice cold layers. Defrost water bottles, make breakfast, run around, pack gear, run around and then wait for the bag to dry in the sun.
The Drying Sessions from James Rathbone on Vimeo.
I continue on the climb up to two thousand meters. Drum and bass once more serves as my soundtrack - certainly helps me push the pedals harder.
Before I know it I'm there! Surprised enough to mutter a “wasn't that bad” when I see the top of the pass. I stop for a rest and scan the landscape - surely there's more to come...but I cant see it. Down hill from here it seems. I melt some snow for water as all the spring outlets I come across are frozen. While I do so a kind lorry driver stops to warn me of the wolves all over the mountains around me. I'm beginning to get used to the idea - but his throat tearing charades act has me worrying once more.
In the town of ashkale some folks I meet tell me there are no wolves - don't know who to believe! On the edge of town I top up my water. The owner insists I don't camp and sets me up in the generator room of the service station. With my bed sorted I'm loaded with cay for the rest of the evening.
Got to get my act together tomorrow and do some distance. Otherwise ill be copping out and using transport sooner than planned - not good!
Saturday, 15 January 2011
Aciliver - Tercan 61km 09/01/2011
Several night wees due to sleeping right next to a snow melt stream. Bit of a late start. Eat last nights leftovers.
At My first cay stop I sit and watch a man hand crafting a fishing net - its an amazing skill and one I'd love to learn.
Enjoy riding again today - perhaps thanks to no notable wind in either direction. The mountains that yesterday threaten to close up (forcing me to ride over them) open out once more. Beautiful and vast snowy mountains either side of the road - I wish I could take a picture worthy of their grandeur.
Rifle shots crackle around me most of the day - land of the hunters it seems. Its also shepherd country and with it the big dogs reappear. My tolerance for them is growing daily - though still a little intolerant of bad owners who wont train or chain them.
I lunch in the carpark of a service station. As I pack up Orhan (the restaurant owner) calls me inside. I am treated to a free feed lots of cay and some fun chatter. I leave under heavy snow - the first of the trip.
Further on, in Tercan I'm called over by a group of lads (about my age). Odd how I'd feel suspicious about this back home, but have come to consider it the norm here. I park the bike up and as a crowd gathers I'm dragged to the nearest cay shack. The explain to me it's drank in a different way here (in the East). It's something like an alcohol free Tequila Slammer. One squeeze the lemon into the cay, places sugar cube between teeth and then sip the drink through the sugar. Its nice – but I feel my teeth crumbling with each glass. Short and sweet, they go back to hanging round outside, I go back to the road.
I begin the big climb up to Erzurum but set camp early in the soft evening light. Big day tomorrow.
Enjoy riding again today - perhaps thanks to no notable wind in either direction. The mountains that yesterday threaten to close up (forcing me to ride over them) open out once more. Beautiful and vast snowy mountains either side of the road - I wish I could take a picture worthy of their grandeur.
Rifle shots crackle around me most of the day - land of the hunters it seems. Its also shepherd country and with it the big dogs reappear. My tolerance for them is growing daily - though still a little intolerant of bad owners who wont train or chain them.
I lunch in the carpark of a service station. As I pack up Orhan (the restaurant owner) calls me inside. I am treated to a free feed lots of cay and some fun chatter. I leave under heavy snow - the first of the trip.
Further on, in Tercan I'm called over by a group of lads (about my age). Odd how I'd feel suspicious about this back home, but have come to consider it the norm here. I park the bike up and as a crowd gathers I'm dragged to the nearest cay shack. The explain to me it's drank in a different way here (in the East). It's something like an alcohol free Tequila Slammer. One squeeze the lemon into the cay, places sugar cube between teeth and then sip the drink through the sugar. Its nice – but I feel my teeth crumbling with each glass. Short and sweet, they go back to hanging round outside, I go back to the road.
Erzincan - Aciliver 58km 08/01/2011
Barking dogs wake me several times during the night. As I pack my gear one rather irritating mutt barks for half an hour non stop. If I approach he runs away, only to return and continue his racket.
The flags outside the petrol station indicate a tail wind - good start to the day. The road is flat and for the first time in days I'm able to zip along. I stop in Erzincan - and am greeted by many friendly and curious people. At the second of three cay stops I meet Serkan - a Turkish cycle tourer. He shows me his website and his sponsors. We have a good natter. I regretfully decline his offer of accommodation whining that I have to make Iran soon and there's some big hills and strong wind between me and the border. Being a fellow tourer he understands - but demonstrates his wonderful hospitality by loading me up with caffeine and then free food for the road. Thanks Serkon!
Once back on the road the wind is not so favourable, and somehow becomes a slight headwind. I have to start declining and ignoring offers of cay in fear that I wont get anywhere today.
Little more to report. Great views! Erzincan is on a plateau at 1185m either side of which snowy (skiable) mountains extend skyward. Way ahead of me in the distance I can see the mountains close in and grow. I know my road goes up there somewhere - my excitement is diluted with apprehension (Erzurum has a reputation for very harsh winters - lowest recorded temps being -37C). Fortunately the forecast for my visit is a comparatively tropical -20C.
Set up my camp under a small bridge where I hope to escape the frost. Use the last of the light to cook. Lentils, cabbage, onion, garlic and chilli - real food, check me out! Stu would be proud!
The flags outside the petrol station indicate a tail wind - good start to the day. The road is flat and for the first time in days I'm able to zip along. I stop in Erzincan - and am greeted by many friendly and curious people. At the second of three cay stops I meet Serkan - a Turkish cycle tourer. He shows me his website and his sponsors. We have a good natter. I regretfully decline his offer of accommodation whining that I have to make Iran soon and there's some big hills and strong wind between me and the border. Being a fellow tourer he understands - but demonstrates his wonderful hospitality by loading me up with caffeine and then free food for the road. Thanks Serkon!
Once back on the road the wind is not so favourable, and somehow becomes a slight headwind. I have to start declining and ignoring offers of cay in fear that I wont get anywhere today.
Little more to report. Great views! Erzincan is on a plateau at 1185m either side of which snowy (skiable) mountains extend skyward. Way ahead of me in the distance I can see the mountains close in and grow. I know my road goes up there somewhere - my excitement is diluted with apprehension (Erzurum has a reputation for very harsh winters - lowest recorded temps being -37C). Fortunately the forecast for my visit is a comparatively tropical -20C.
Set up my camp under a small bridge where I hope to escape the frost. Use the last of the light to cook. Lentils, cabbage, onion, garlic and chilli - real food, check me out! Stu would be proud!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)